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I always chuckle when all the experts come out and tell you how you shouldn't do things like this. Great video showing you can do things with what you have. Not everybody has deep enough pockets for a mill. Thanks.

ok….. no

Nothing like a brain using critical thinking and ingenuity to get to where your minds eye is seeing an end result. You’ll do great things Grasshopper! Keep Tinkering

I.see all these guys on youtube trying to make 1/4" deep cuts all at ine time than saying the setup is junk or not ideal when it would work waaayyy better if they just did 0.2 mm passes they would be plesently surprised

I plunged arecess to fit a hinge and the bit pulled itself into the work. Both from the chuck and the morse taper.

The direction of cutting vs the flutes orientation is important: upmilling vs downmilling. Oh and since your end mill, chuck and arbor could come loose highly recommend you wear a face shield that includes neck coverage.

I remember reading somewhere that using a thin piece of paper (type?) btw end mill and chuck jaws helps to retain the mill from side load loosening.

Yeah, the Morse Taper -> Jacobs taper aren't happy with latteral motion. I'd love to have a vert. milling machine, but can't justify the cost even for a mini-benchtop one. Having said that, I'm thinking about getting a used DP and replacing the stem, arbor, etc with a collet for holding milling bits. Will still need to be gentle with the latteral movement as the bearings my get fkt. I really only need it for soft stuff like alum. nylon, etc. Anyway, nice vid. thanks for posting.

you did titghten the vice gibbs right? thats lot of slop that shoul be tightened up esily ceap or not and you absoluteky have to lock down the spindle otherwise eventually its going to fall out from sideoad and take your eye out

Buy a good X-Y TABLE and additionally a milling vise. All X-Y vises are pretty much junk, or you will spend as much as you will for a cast iron milled and ground X-Y table with V ways and gibs, which is what you want anyway. The table and a clamping kit will let you hold much larger parts than a vise will. You still can only do small and light machining, but there is a very common use case for light machine work on larger parts. But if you go down this route you will identify other areas of the drill press that also need upgrading to make more precise and more rigid. These can be done cheaply but you will have to know what you are doing.

This press has worked like a charm for my projects ruclips.net/user/postUgkxajoEbapTfqWaadnqb04h6U576yxXp-FE . I didn't even secure it to my table top, mainly due to the fact that I was using a 15 lbs drill vise. It's not flimsy at all as to what others have claimed it to be. Make sure the locking nuts and levers are secured and there won't be any issues with light pressure and patience. I was able to drill through aluminum, plastic, and steel (steel took a while) with no problems at all. Yeah it took a little longer than a regular drill press, but I don't have the space OR the money for one.The instruction manual was worthless, but luckily assembling the press was intuitive. However, the manual would be good for ordering replacement parts if needed. There is a nice breakdown of the parts that are included in the kit. Before ordering, make sure it is compatible with your unit, it is clearly stated what models the press is compatible with.This was an excellent purchase for $40!!

P.S some times places get rid of old machinist tools and machine that are not so big that small enough to get you going and usually for not much money just to get them out of the way. Because they got larger newer and more safistcated models so keep a lookout if you're interested in machinist work. Those old dinosaurs still do so fine work

Hey those cross slide vises have slide tensioner bolts to snug up the slack on them just make sure the slides are clean and then grease them and tighten up all the slide tensioner bolts snug enough they have no slack or wiggle in it and it's not hard to do . I've got mine snug enough until when I make any travel with it by turning the travel handles it's got some firmness to move the cross slide. A lathe has the same type of tension on the slide on the tool holder.they have to be adjusted to where there's not any play side to side or up and down.snug up the bolts or Allen head bolts just until it feels good and firm but still able to move your crossslide and make sure they are clean and lubed with wheel bearing grease before tightening them up and you will get a smooth cut and finish on what your cutting . Hey I liked your video and it's good to see you doing something worth wild of doing. I started out watching my uncle and my father over 50 years ago they were professional machinist with lathes and milling machines . My uncle made fighter jet parts for a naval place just out of Jacksonville Florida. It was called N.A.R.F. it was a place for navy jets to be worked on like sabre jets when I went there and wow when I walked through that place with my uncle and my father and I was only around 8 years old I was amazed at all those jet fighter planes with all the tail find with painting of the squadron on them one had a bat flying by a yellow moon 🌕 and I even got to climb up a ladder and look in the cockpit of a sabre you know the ones that had the air intake in the front under the cockpit that was great moment in my like. Well anyway I became a machinist when I grew up and I'm now retired. You can become very wealthy being a machinist. My uncle was way past just being a millionaire. If you love machinist work work at and your math there is a lot of math in that job and now days it pays good money and if you got your own machinery and good at it you'll have it made my friend. I started off with small mini lathe s and milling machines and drill press and keep getting bigger and bigger and better machines . Like planting a seed and it keeps growing and before long it's turned into a big tree . Take care and I wish you the best of a future good luck

Your honest appraisal is worth all! Great! Thank you very much!

VERY Dangerous Thing to Do ..... Drill presss are NOT designed for SIDE LOADING of the spindle !! (side Pressure) Another issue is DRILL Presses dont have COLLETS to hold the end Mill cutters Securely !! The end mill is ONLY held in a drill chuck by THREE Jaws NOT a Collet !! And on top of those 3 NoNOs ANY unfixed Milling cross compound vise is NOT really safe to use for milling operations and could come loose from the drill press table . AND Finally spindle speed of the drill press are NONCONDUCIVE to Milling Operations I am a Retired Toolmaker and have seen ACCIDENTS by folks who use machine TOOLS Inappropriately . My advice DO it with a PROPER Machine NOT a DRILL PRESS Stay Safe !!

That is lateral material removal. It is really not even close to milling. A drill chuck is not for milling at all, that is what collets are for. I predict massive deflection.

You've spent a lot of money to demonstrate why a drill press should never be used as a milling machine. What you achieved on this video could have been achieved with a hacksaw and files in pretty much the same amount of time with a considerably better finish. End mill bits are not cheap and the assurance that "you will break them" is not encouraging. I don't think you've found a solution here.

whats that blue stuff on the metal called?? i forgot :(

As someone with some experience on a real endmill and a drill press end mill I would like to correct a couple things. If you are milling steel you should be hitting it with cooling fluid every few seconds. Not once for the whole operation. Also, lock the drill press handle and don't touch it. Moving it up and down like that can cause side loads that can break bits. If you are doing it right you should see chips instead of the bits of metal dust. Take it slow and try again.

so cute

How did you keep the chuck attached? My reasoning is the taper isn't meant for side loading, and I've heard stories of them jumping off 🤔

Drill presses are for drilling, tapping(w a tap head).. period..milling machines are for milling, drilling, boring, turning, tapping. Honestly if you do any investigation into how a drill press spindle is made you’d realize just how stupid this is.

Using 2 flute EM's on steel, even carbide, and going slow/lite cut is a sure way to break an endmill.

Your depth of cut is too deep for your setup. Ideally you should cut to a depth of maybe 30 thousandths and clean out the whole area. Then go back and keep making those .030 deep cuts until you are all the way through.

do not use a drill chuck for milling, is designed for vertical load not side load. You can use morse taper mills or a morse taper collet holder and cheap er16 collets

Well no wonder you broke your bit, you're trying to take too much off at once.

This was hard to watch

This is painful that poor drill

How did the chuck not immediately remove itself from the side loading?

Your wife is hard worker than you 😀😀😀

This is actually the worst milling on a drill press video, why would you ever do it this way. Try a jig saw and you wont ruin your drill press, you also don't need a cross vice.

Its rather obvious that you're N0T a machinist !

You would have much better luck using a larger mill end than a smaller one... I know this from experience as I did it on my old drill press with a HF 3 way vice after tightening it up alot...... the problem is the speed I used a 4 flute milling bit in the chuck ( a 3/8" one) to make a long slot for an alternator adjustment arm. the mill-end I used had cutting edges on the bottom of it so I could plunge it ( got them from HF as well) with the speed slow so I had more power I would plunge the web out and then turn up the speed to as high as it would go and nibble away at the dimples left and smooth the sides now understand my drill press had alot of runout in it ... the bearings in the head were shot but I still accomplished a milling job !.... but if I got the pressure wrong (too much pressure) it would go into a harmonic that threatened to tear down the house ! .... although I never broke the bit it scared the heck out of me a few times ! my milling machine now is just a glorified heavy drill press and I cannot take any cuts more than a 1/16" or it will go into harmonic roaring because of the flex in the frame work the mill is a home made affair that I used the milling head from a HF 3 in 1 mill drill lathe . and a old shop smith lathe frame and a camper jack.... it works but not as good as I had hoped, it needs to be alot more solid to mill correctly. I bought a small milling table for it that like the HF vice had to be tightened up and it works good now. ..... necessity is the mother of invention ! there is always another way to do it ! .... I am convinced you can make a good mill from a strong drill press you just have to make it a whole lot stronger.... and locktight the morris taper drill chuck in ! <GRIN>

i'm not a machinist, but i'm certain you are supposed to take many passes going in like a 1/16th or 1/8" at a time. Just a bit at a time so you don't stress the sides. I've done this with drill bits with not so accurate results, but it worked, though it came out wonky.

Surely, {I know, don't call me surely!} a half decent file plus a whole heap of elbow grease would achieve the same result?....well, it does for me.

I think if you just needed to do a one-off or prototype, you could do it with hand tools. If you wanted to do anything at scale/automated, obviously you would need a proper end-mill.

I do not use a chuck but a collet whit a MT2 modified (shoten) whit a "T" bolt inside the opening of MT removing tool. The "t bolt is use in place of draw bar.

for operations like this you should use a roughing endmill. with this bit you should instead begin from the top and carve your way to the bottom, very light cuts, even more with a drill press. This will reduce lateral forces. dont use x y at the same time, set your z, travel along x or y during the cut and move back to starting position, also avoid up milling for the same reasons, it adds more forces during travel and also will damage your bit faster.

after 6 years, how is it working for you>

Nice video but the name of the company is origin blade maker 😂. Thanks for making video👍👍👍👍👍

Holy fuck, this is not how you mill! xD

So im new to garage milling too, and as such am not super knowledgeable with what types of speed and feed materials need on various machines with various tooling. However from the little that I've done with my setup that is somewhat similar AKA a drill press a cross vise and Bets I would suggest that instead of trying to do a combination of drilling and Milling at the same time dropped the amount you're trying to Mill out in one pass significantly. Lots of little passes following the same path. For the couple projects I've done I've only gone maybe an eighth of an inch at a time. And follow a conventional Milling path until you're comfortable with that before learning climb Milling. I had better luck pinning the drill chuck completely up or completely down instead of having to worry about the Chuck going up and down while controlling my feed path at the same time just my two cents. Good luck

Worst company out there. terrible customer service and rip you off on shipping and call you a thief after NOT recieving what you ordered. Awesome business practice.

I've been using a rhinofab an actual mill but rather that a 4 fluted bit will work better a bit more expensive and also I ran at about 10,000rpm the higher the better for mill bits and cutting oil is a must

The thing is you can spend $800 and not get much more tgan if you spent $100. This is a problem tool that's not made to strict specs.

This can work with decent results. The best thing to do is replace the bearings. That would improve things two fold. Fill the post up with concrete to minimize vibration. Check out a milling chart for spindle speed, then run approximately the same. Use the biggest end mill that will fit your work piece or chuck. If possible swap chuck for a collets. I have been using a Barnes camelback for years now doing the same thing. The absolute mass of mine keeps it from vibrating.

Everyone is an expert on the keyboard. Matbe, - Just maybe, some of us don't have access to all the fancy tools and need to find a get around. This does just that .

I DON'T THINK HE READ THE INSTRUCTIONS....

Dude, you need some zinc. Those white spots under you thumbnail do not belong there.

oh boy